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Featured Chef Maxime Bilet

Bio

Maxime Bilet graduated with highest honors from the Institute of Culinary Education in New York. He began his career at Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar and was quickly hired to the head chef position there by Jack Lamb. Moving to London, he accepted a position with Heston Blumenthal's development team at The Fat Duck. Just prior to joining the culinary team as head chef for recipe research and development at The Cooking Lab, Bilet trained as sous chef to open the London branch of Auberge de L'lle.

Bilet received a BA in creative writing, literature, and visual arts from Skidmore College.

InterviewTop of Page

Please tell us about Modernist Cuisine. What inspired it, and how did you do the research?

We had an idea to create a book that would explain the science of cooking in an approachable way by combing clear and highly readable text with visually stunning photography. we wanted this book to be a source of sound information for professional chefs and home cooks alike. The object was to demystify the counter intuitive aspects of cooking and give people knowledge that empowers them to be more confident and creative in their cooking. Although the project began as an in-depth study of sous vide cooking, it grew rapidly, and we ended up covering the entire scope of the culinary arts, including sections on history, physics, traditional cooking, and hydro-colloids.

Who is your audience, and how has the book been received?

Originally, we set our sights mainly on the realm of professional chefs. But as the scope of the book expanded, it became clear that what we were creating would appeal to a far more varied audience. Modernist Cuisine does have many recipes for professional chefs, but the majority of the recipes and techniques can be used at home by passionate cooks. We've heard from many home cooks who have purchased affordable sous vide equipment so that they can delve deeper into the book. A few have even gone as far as purchasing centrifuges - but that is certainly not the norm.

Both in the press and among professional chefs, the book has been received incredibly well. As we were developing the book, we had no good way to tell who would really connect with it. So it's been a lot of fun to witness how people from such a wide range of backgrounds and interests have been inspired by it.

What are some of the best-tasting new foods and dishes you've discovered using the modern cooking techniques described in the cookbook?

One of my favorite recipes produces a seemingly simple result - pea butter - that actually requires a fairly complex process. The pea butter is a concentrated form of the small amount of fat that naturally exists in peas. It has the intense flavor of a thousand peas condensed into one, and the texture of soft butter. We serve it on toast.

I like this recipe because it showcases the extraordinary way that modern science and technology allow you to create delicious food in a very pure way that just wasn't feasible using traditional techniques.

In this case, the crucial tool is a centrifuge, which spins the food so rapidly that it forces different components in the food to separate according to their density. In our research kitchen, we use a lab-grade centrifuge about as often as most people use their stove top. The centrifuge is an excellent tool for clarifying broths and juices, and for discovering new ingredients and flavors. To make the pea butter, we puree really fresh green peas and then spin the puree in a centrifuge a 17,000g -- that's 17,000 times the force of gravity. This separates the mixture into three very distinct layers: the juice from the peas, which is extremely sweet and brightly colored; the starch of the peas, which can be rolled into crackers or used for pasta dough; and a third layer, which is the fat from the peas. We call this last layer pea butter.

You talk about many new ingredients in the book. What new ingredients do you think will make their way into mainstream cooking?

Xanthan gum is a fascinating and very versatile thickener, and you can find it now at lots of grocery stores and food coops. It is a polysaccharide thickener that adds no flavor of its own to the liquid that it thickens. A tiny amount goes a long way.

Traditionally, cooks thickened liquids by adding starch, fat, or particles from a puree, but these invariably affect the flavor and add calories to the final product. Starch and fat both coat your tongue and inhibit flavor perception to some degree. And starch typically needs to be heated to function as a thickener, so you can't use it to thicken raw foods. Xanthan gum avoids all these issues: it produces a mouth-feel similar to starch or fat, but without the calories, interference with the flavor, or the need for heat.

N-Zorbit tapioca starch is also a really usefull ingredient. Chefs often use it to make powders from oil and fat but you can also find it in home kitchens as an ingredient in boxed cake mixes. N-Zorbit is especially handy when grinding oily foods like spices and nuts; it prevents the fine powders from clumping up.

The Kuhn Rikon Duromatic Pressure Cooker is noted in Modernist Cuisine as an invaluable Modernist tool. Why is this, and why did you choose the Kuhn Rikon model as your favorite?

The pressure cooker is an incredibly useful and versatile tool. When you cook food in high-pressure steam, the food experiences a very moist environment but at temperatures that can rise far above the usual boiling point of water. The temperature inside a pressure cooker running a 1 bar / 15 psi above can reach 250 degrees F, so all kinds of foods - from grains to legumes to braised meats - cook faster and more efficiently. We get consistently good results from the Duromatic, and we find it is easy to use and to follow the instruction manual.

there is a "How to" in Modernist Cuisine that describes the technique of cooking stock in a pressure cooker. Why do recommend using the pressure cooker for making stocks?

Pressure-cooking stock has two big advantages. First, you can make the stock much faster because of the high temperature: one hour instead of three hours for chicken stock, and two hours instead of eight hours for beef stock. Second, this approach extracts more flavor from the ingredients and protects the complex flavors that are created during cooking. Because the pressure cooker is sealed, the volatile aromatic compounds that are typically blown off into the air instead condense back into the stock as the cooker cools. And because the water doesn't boil in the pressure cooker, the stocks also come out extremely clear and having a very clean flavor.

There are several stock recipes in Modernist Cuisine that recommend a pressure cooker. What are your favorite recipes, and why?

All meat stocks and poultry stocks are best made in a pressure cooker. We find it better to make fish stocks and shellfish stocks sous vide because these foods are so delicate. But for any of the basic meat stocks or more complex recipes like pho broth, a pressure cooker is the tool to use.

From your experience, what are some of your favorite foods and dishes to prepare in a pressure cooker?

Pressure-cooked risotto and paella are great. Making them this way cuts the cooking time from 25-30 minutes down to 6-8 minutes. And the grains take on an incredibly even bite instead of the typical al dente texture. It is really something people should experience.

We also make something we called caramelized carrot soup. We combine carrots, butter,and baking soda, and then pressure-cook them for 15 minutes or so. This results in dramatically caramelized carrots that are very tender. The combination of high temperature, natural fructose in the carrots, and the alkaline environment created by the addition of baking soda cause the food to brown and caramelize much more readily. this technique also works very well with other vegetables such as corn, parsnip, onions, and winter squash, as well as with certain fruits, such as bananas.

What food trends do you see for the future?

Precise cooking is definitely catching on, and it will be an important part of what we'll be seeing in the future. By precise cooking, we mean the approach of cooking with weight measures instead of volume measures, and cooking with accurate temperatures rather than relying on timing or trial and error. to cook with precision, you really need the insights and depth of knowledge provided by basic science, but it can tremendously increase your creative capacity and confidence as a cook.

Modern cooking should also be synonymous with conscientious cooking. That means being cognizant not only of how things work, but also of the ethics of cooking , the diversity and sources of ingredients that are available, the diversity of techniques, and the full range of creative possibilities. It is important to cook with the most up-to-date information available, and these days much more of the information you need is online or available from new books like Modernist Cuisine. If you love to eat, then hopefully you also love to taste and to discover new things, and you want to protect how that is made possible.

More InfoTop of Page

Caramelized Carrot Soup

Ingredients

5 cups carrots, peeled and cored
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 Tbsp salt
1/2 tsp baking soda
2 1/2 cups fresh carrot juice
3 Tbsp carotene butter (or unsalted butter)
salt to taste

Directions

  1. Cut carrots into 1" pieces, removing and discarding any tough or fibrous cores.
  2. Melt the 1/2 cup of butter in the bottom of a pressure cooker.
  3. Add the salt and baking soda to the carrots and melted butter.
  4. Pressure cook at the second red ring or 15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing when pressure is reached.
  5. Run cold water over the cooker to depressurize it.
  6. Blend the mixture to a smooth puree.
  7. Press through a fine sieve into a pot.
  8. Bring the carrot juice to a boil, and strain to remove any solids.
  9. Stir into the carrot puree, and bring back to a simmer. Add water, if necessary, to thin to the desired consistency.
  10. Blend the 3 Tbsp of carotene butter into the soup.
  11. Season with salt (optional) and serve warm.